Sant’Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna: The Magi and the Erased Goths

Mosaic processions in the nave of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo in Ravenna

Sant'Apollinare Nuovo is a 6th-century basilica in Ravenna, built by the Ostrogothic king Theodoric as his palace church. Its two long walls are covered in mosaics, including processions of saints and the Three Kings, and if you look closely you can still see ghostly hands on the columns where Theodoric's court was erased after the Byzantines took over.

Sant'Apollinare Nuovo at a glance

  • Where: Via di Roma, in the centre of Ravenna, a few minutes' walk from the main square, Piazza del Popolo.
  • Built: early 6th century; dedicated in 504 as an Arian church of Christ the Redeemer.
  • By: commissioned by Theodoric the Great, King of the Ostrogoths.
  • What it is today: a church and one of the eight Early Christian Monuments of Ravenna on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1996.
  • Time needed: 30–45 minutes.

From Arian palace church to Saint Apollinaris

Theodoric ruled Italy from Ravenna and, like most Goths, was an Arian Christian, a branch of Christianity that saw Christ as subordinate to God the Father. He built this basilica next to his palace and had it decorated with mosaics. After the Byzantine emperor Justinian took Ravenna, the church was handed to the Catholic clergy and rededicated in 561 to Saint Martin of Tours, a fighter against Arianism. Mosaics that were too obviously Arian or that glorified the king were removed or reworked, and the people in Theodoric's palace were replaced with curtains.

In 856 the relics of Saint Apollinaris, Ravenna's first bishop, were moved here from the basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, near the coast, to protect them from pirate raids, and the church took the name it still has: the new Sant'Apollinare. The marble portico on the facade dates from the 16th century, the round bell tower from the 9th or 10th, and the apse was rebuilt after damage in the Second World War.

What to look for

  • The procession of 22 virgins on the left wall, led by the Three Kings in Persian dress, walking from the port of Classe toward the Virgin and Child.
  • The names above the Magi: Balthasar, Melchior and Gaspar, thought to be the earliest known example of these names in Christian art.
  • The procession of 26 martyrs on the right wall, led by Saint Martin, walking from Theodoric's palace toward Christ enthroned.
  • The palace itself, labelled PALATIUM, and look between the arches for the hands and arm fragments left when Theodoric's courtiers were covered over.
  • Higher up, the band of prophets and saints between the windows, and the small scenes from the life of Christ along the top.
  • The two versions of Christ in those top scenes: young and beardless for the miracles on the left, bearded for the Passion on the right.

A golden legend

A story is often told that Pope Gregory the Great ordered the mosaics here to be blackened, because their gold distracted the faithful from prayer. It is a legend, not documented history. What is certain is that the name given to the church in 561, Saint Martin in the Golden Heaven, shows how much the gold impressed people. Whatever the truth of the story, the gold has survived, and on a bright day the processions still shine along the nave.

Tips for your visit

  • Visiting is by the combined ticket that also covers San Vitale, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia and the Neonian Baptistery; check the current details before you go.
  • Come in the morning or late afternoon, outside the peak hours for tour groups, to have time with the mosaics.
  • Bring binoculars or use your phone's zoom: the top band of scenes is high up and full of detail.
  • Dress respectfully, as it is a working church, and keep your voice down.

Nearby

  • Palace of Theodoric: the brick facade next door on Via di Roma, traditionally linked to Theodoric's palace though probably built later.
  • Arian Baptistery: a small octagonal baptistery from Theodoric's time with a mosaic of Christ's baptism in its dome.
  • Basilica of San Vitale: Ravenna's most famous church, with mosaics of Justinian and Theodora, across the old town.
  • Tomb of Dante: the small neoclassical tomb of the poet, who died in Ravenna in 1321.

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Our Ravenna scavenger hunt turns the old town into a game you play on your phone. The route links 10 stops and takes around two hours, with about 38 minutes of walking. It includes places such as the Giardini Pubblici. You can play in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Dutch.

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If you prefer a different format, Ravenna also has a self-guided walking tour and an outdoor escape game.

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Play the outdoor escape game in Ravenna →

Facts checked in October 2026.

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