
The violinist Niccolò Paganini lies in a small neoclassical temple-tomb in the Villetta, Parma's monumental cemetery. He died in Nice in 1840, but the Church refused him a Catholic burial, and his body was only laid to rest in Parma in 1876, 36 years later. The tomb is one of the quietest but most moving places in the city for anyone who loves music.
Paganini's tomb at a glance
- Where: in the Cimitero Monumentale della Villetta, on Viale della Villetta, south-west of the historic centre and west of the Parma river.
- Built: commissioned by Paganini's son Achille; Paganini's remains have rested in the Villetta since 1876, and were moved for the last time in 1896.
- What it is today: a small temple in neoclassical style, one of the best-known graves in a cemetery that is still in use.
- Time needed: 30–45 minutes, including a walk through the cemetery's arcades.
36 years without a grave
Paganini was born in Genoa in 1782 and became the most famous violin virtuoso of his age. He knew Parma well: he came here as a teenager to study, and in 1835 he entered the service of Duchess Marie Louise, Napoleon's widow, to reorganise her court orchestra, a plan that failed after quarrels with the players. When he was dying in Nice in May 1840, he did not receive the last rites, and the Bishop of Nice refused him burial in consecrated ground.
What followed is one of the strangest journeys in music history. His embalmed body was kept in a series of temporary places around Nice and later moved to the Genoa area, still unburied. His son Achille fought for decades to give him a proper grave. In 1876 the remains were finally buried in Parma, in the Villetta. The coffin was opened in 1893 so that the Czech violinist František Ondříček could see the body, and in 1896 Paganini was reburied, this time for good.
What to look for
- The tomb itself: a small neoclassical temple, sober and classical in form, built for Paganini by his son.
- Tributes: visitors often leave flowers, and now and then a violinist plays at the tomb in homage.
- The cemetery plan: the Villetta was laid out square on the outside and octagonal inside, ringed by arcades that hold the chapels of Parma's old families and confraternities.
- Other famous graves: the composer Ildebrando Pizzetti, General Carlo Alberto Dalla Chiesa, the pasta maker Pietro Barilla and the actress Paola Borboni are also buried here.
- The cemetery's age: it was created in 1817 by order of Marie Louise, after Napoleon's rules banned burials inside towns; the first person buried here was the poet Angelo Mazza.
The 'devil's violinist'
In his lifetime Paganini's speed, his gaunt figure and his dark clothes fed a legend that he had sold his soul to the devil in exchange for his talent. It was only a legend, but it followed him to the grave: it is one of the reasons often given for the Church's refusal to bury him. His favourite violin, a Guarneri del Gesù he nicknamed Il Cannone, did not come to Parma: he left it to his native Genoa, where it is kept today.
Tips for your visit
- The Villetta is a working cemetery: keep your voice down, dress respectfully and be discreet with photos when there is a funeral nearby.
- The cemetery is large, so ask at the entrance or look for signs pointing to Paganini's tomb rather than wandering at random.
- Around 27 May, the anniversary of his death, Parma's Paganini Prize has in some years held a small commemoration at the tomb.
- Combine the visit with the Oltretorrente district on the way back to the centre, the old working-class quarter west of the river.
Nearby
- Arturo Toscanini's birthplace: the conductor's childhood home in the Oltretorrente, a museum since 1967, the centenary of his birth.
- Parco Ducale: the former ducal gardens on the west bank of the river, with the Palazzo del Giardino and long tree-lined avenues.
- Teatro Regio: the opera house commissioned by Marie Louise and opened in 1829, still one of Italy's great stages for Verdi.
- Paganini Auditorium: Renzo Piano's concert hall in a former sugar factory on the east side of the city, named after the violinist.
See Parma with World City Trail
Our Parma scavenger hunt turns the old town into a game you play on your phone. The route takes around 2 hours, with about 26 minutes of walking, and leads through the historic centre. The Villetta lies outside the centre, so plan it as a separate visit before or after. You can play in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish or Dutch.
If you prefer a different format, there is also a self-guided walking tour and an outdoor escape game in Parma.
Play the Parma scavenger hunt →
Take the self-guided walking tour of Parma →
Play the outdoor escape game in Parma →
Facts checked in October 2026.
