Piazza del Plebiscito in Naples: The Blindfold Walk Legend

Piazza del Plebiscito and the church of San Francesco di Paola in Naples

Piazza del Plebiscito is the largest square in Naples, about 25,000 square metres of open paving at the end of Via Toledo, between the Royal Palace and the domed church of San Francesco di Paola. It is named after the plebiscite of October 1860, when the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies voted to join the new Italy. Until 1994 much of it was a car park; today it is the city's stage for concerts, celebrations and a famous blindfold challenge.

Piazza del Plebiscito at a glance

  • Where: at the southern end of Via Toledo, close to the seafront, the Teatro di San Carlo and the Galleria Umberto I.
  • Built: laid out in its present form in the early 19th century; the church of San Francesco di Paola was built between 1817 and the 1830s, designed by the Swiss architect Pietro Bianchi.
  • What it is today: a car-free public square used for concerts, events and contemporary art installations, framed by the Royal Palace, the Prefecture and Palazzo Salerno.
  • Time needed: 20–30 minutes on the square; add an hour or two if you visit the Royal Palace or the church.

From Largo di Palazzo to the square of the plebiscite

For centuries this was simply the open ground in front of the Royal Palace, built from 1600 for the Spanish viceroys and called Largo di Palazzo. In the early 1800s, during the French period, King Joachim Murat began to turn it into a grand forum. When the Bourbons returned in 1815, Ferdinand I kept the idea but changed its meaning: the centrepiece became a church dedicated to St Francis of Paola, a thank-offering for getting his throne back, with a sweeping colonnade inspired by St Peter's in Rome and a dome modelled on the Pantheon.

After Garibaldi's expedition, the people of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies voted in a plebiscite on 21 October 1860 to join the Kingdom of Italy, and the square took its present name. During the economic boom of the 1960s it became a huge car park, and it stayed that way until 1994, when the city cleared it for the G7 summit held in Naples. Since then it has been pedestrianised and has hosted big open-air concerts and art installations, such as Mimmo Paladino's 'mountain of salt' in 1995.

What to look for

  • San Francesco di Paola: the neoclassical church with its Pantheon-like dome, about 53 metres high, and the curved Doric colonnade that wraps around the west side of the square.
  • The two equestrian statues in front of the colonnade: Charles III of Bourbon, by Antonio Canova, and his son Ferdinand I, whose horse is by Canova and whose rider was finished by his pupil Antonio Calì after Canova died.
  • The Royal Palace façade on the east side: look for the eight statues of kings of Naples in the niches, from the Norman Roger II to Victor Emmanuel II, each by a different sculptor.
  • Palazzo della Prefettura and Palazzo Salerno: the two matching palaces that close the north and south sides of the square.
  • The slight slope of the paving: you barely notice it, but it plays a part in the legend below.

Queen Margherita's challenge

Legend says that Queen Margherita offered prisoners their freedom if they could walk blindfolded from the Royal Palace across the square and pass between the two bronze horses, and that almost nobody ever managed it, supposedly because of a curse she put on the square. The real reasons are the slight slope and the uneven paving, which pull walkers off course. On any evening you'll see Neapolitans and visitors trying it with a scarf over their eyes, while their friends laugh as they veer off to one side.

Tips for your visit

  • Try the challenge yourself: start with your back to the Royal Palace's central door, cover your eyes and walk towards the gap between the two horses. Ask a friend to keep you away from other people.
  • For the best photo of the whole square, stand on the steps of the colonnade and look across to the Royal Palace, ideally in the late afternoon light.
  • The church of San Francesco di Paola is a place of worship: dress modestly and keep quiet if a service is on.

Nearby

  • Royal Palace of Naples: the former residence of the viceroys and Bourbon kings, with its royal apartments, grand staircase and court theatre.
  • Teatro di San Carlo: Naples' opera house, opened in 1737, right beside the Royal Palace.
  • Galleria Umberto I: the glass-domed 1890s shopping arcade opposite the San Carlo.
  • Gran Caffè Gambrinus: the historic café on the corner of the square, a meeting place for writers and musicians since the late 19th century.

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Facts checked in October 2026.

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