Spooksteeg is a narrow alley off the Oudezijds Achterburgwal canal in De Wallen, the oldest part of Amsterdam. Its name means Ghost Alley, and it is the setting of one of the city's best-known ghost stories: the legend of Helena, a tanner's daughter said to have haunted the lane since the 18th century. There is not much to see in a few metres of brick and shadow, but it is a good place to feel how tight and old this part of the city is.
Spooksteeg at a glance
- Where: off the Oudezijds Achterburgwal in De Wallen, at the end of the little Vredenburger bridge that crosses the canal from Vredenburgersteeg.
- What it is today: a short, narrow public alley between old canal houses, in the middle of the Red Light District.
- What it is known for: the ghost story of Helena and her sister Dina, told on many of the city's evening ghost walks.
- Time needed: 5 to 10 minutes; combine it with a walk along the canals of the old centre.
An alley in the oldest part of Amsterdam
De Wallen grew up along the oldest canals of the medieval city. The Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which Spooksteeg opens onto, was dug in 1367 as the back moat of the old town on the Oudezijds, the 'old side' of Amsterdam. Between the canals runs a tight web of alleys, or stegen, many only a few shoulders wide, which once linked the quays with workshops, storehouses and backyards. Trades that needed water, such as tanning, often worked close to the canals.
Today the northern part of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal is the busiest strip of the Red Light District, with bars, coffee shops and window brothels, while the southern end is quieter and dominated by University of Amsterdam buildings. Spooksteeg itself is easy to miss. An anonymous drawing in the Rijksmuseum collection, made sometime between 1900 and 1950 and titled View of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal at the Spooksteeg, shows how long this corner has caught people's eye.
What to look for
- The bridge: the small canal bridge between Vredenburgersteeg and Spooksteeg gives the best view down the alley and along the water.
- The street sign: the name plate reading Spooksteeg is the alley's main photo spot.
- The width: notice how close the walls are; this is what much of medieval Amsterdam felt like before wider streets were cut through.
- The canal houses on the Oudezijds Achterburgwal: gables, hoist beams and tilted façades that lean forward towards the water.
The legend of Helena
According to the legend, in the 18th century a tanner lived here with his two daughters, Helena and Dina. When a sailor fell in love with the fairer Dina, Helena pushed her sister into the tannery cellar, killing her, and made it look like an accident. She went on to marry the sailor, but on her deathbed in 1753 she confessed. Her husband refused to forgive her and cursed her to wander in misery for ever. The story goes that exactly a century later her screams were heard in the alley again, and visitors still claim to see her. It is a legend, not documented history, but it is the reason the alley appears on almost every Amsterdam ghost tour.
Tips for your visit
- Go in daylight or early evening; late at night the Red Light District becomes very crowded and loud.
- Do not take photos of the windows or the people working in them: it is forbidden in the Red Light District and taken seriously.
- Spooksteeg is a public lane next to people's homes, so keep your voice down if you come with a group.
- If you want the full story, one of the evening ghost walks in the old centre usually stops here.
Nearby
- Oude Kerk: Amsterdam's oldest building, a medieval church standing in the middle of De Wallen, a few minutes' walk away.
- Our Lord in the Attic: a 17th-century Catholic church hidden in the upper floors of a canal house on the Oudezijds Voorburgwal.
- Nieuwmarkt and De Waag: a lively square around a 15th-century city gate that later became a weigh house.
- Oudemanhuispoort: a covered passage at the quiet southern end of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal, home to a long-running second-hand book market.
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Facts checked in October 2026.